Farewell for now

We had one full day based at Opua when we just relaxed and explored the local area. That included a beautiful shoreline walk to Paihia, about 5 Kms.

 It was really good to stretch the legs properly and get a feel for the history and ecology of the place. 

Took the ferry to Russell and looked around the small museum there. It was just a taste really of things to explore when we come back, in warmer weather. Apart for the potential for sandflies I am really looking forward to that. They savaged my feet until I got the message and put on socks but I understand/hope that they aren't as bad as that all year round.

The following day we cleaned and scrubbed and put sails away and found the swing mooring out in the Bay. Nice and sheltered, secure and good rates so what more could you want. We have a couple of quotes to put a Bimini on her in the Summer or else we and our friends will fry in the NZ sun. 

Had dinner at the local cruising club, good meal and friendly people but seeing the Little Blue Penguin as we came across the harbour in the dinghy was the highlight.

One of the final activities was to drink the bottle of wine kindly donated by the previous owners. We had waited until the right opportunity and this was it, the end of our first voyage.

Cheers Roland and Claudia, we love and will look after Anyway.


No doubt I have learnt more about sailing and probably a bit more about myself. I still can't spell but what the hell.

Some friends had said that sailing a new boat, with me a relative novice, in the middle of Winter would make or break a fairly  new relationship. Well, apart from an occasional glum face from me when I couldn't quite follow sailing instructions  I'd say we did very well.

 25 August 2011

Getting close to the end of the journey

We have decided to leave Anyway in Opua for the rest of the Winter and maybe through the Summer.

She will be on a swing mooring at a reasonable cost, much better than anything in Auckland and ready for us to explore the Bay of Islands properly. Certainly a beautiful part of the World.

So we sailed on the genoa to Opua, only making a couple of knots and thought yet again about  trying fishing, without success. Clearly we need to work on fishing, maybe we just aren't taking it seriously enough.




But, finally warm enough to remove the Swandri!

In the Winterless North

 Ok, not entirely winterless but a magnificent high is straddling the country and all is good.

So on Saturday 20 August, we set off for Kerikeri, 

One objective being to visit sailing friends of Gavin’s from 20 + years ago, 

Smooth sailing with light winds, we arrived at Kerikeri, not the easiest marina to tackle, and met up with Garry and Jessie and welcomed them onboard.

On Sunday they drove us to Paihia, Opua and then through Kerikeri to their house and land where they had created a beautiful garden along with a very comfortable and welcoming home. Easy to see why an American and an Irish lass had decided to make Kerikeri their home

From Tutukaka to bliss

 Next day we made an early start as there was a long day ahead.

Immediately out from the shelter of the harbour was the swell, stronger than the day before. (OK I know it doesn't look like it in the photo) 

I’d thought before we set off that a sea sickness pill might help but hadn’t bothered to take it, something I regretted as when I took one it was a bit late. Headed out towards the Poor Knight Islands across the swell and then turned North going with the swell in a 15 to 18 knot wind and sailed well, getting to 7 knots and, apart from the cold, enjoying the ride. 

I was sent up onto the bowsprit to take this photo; the fear  falling overboard being nothing compared to the fear of dropping my i-phone in the drink. Apple should make them with cords you can put around your neck. For such clever people they really have some design faults

We made Cape Brett in the early afternoon, the famous Hole in the Rock being clear from some miles back. 

We rounded Cape Brett and then with a Narnia transformation were in smooth water as we reached the outskirts of the Bay of Islands. We had taken the slow route there, over three weeks but its attraction was immediately obvious.

 

Headed for Oke Bay, a beautiful spot with clear, clear water and settled in for the night. 

Bay of Islands here we come

So on 18 August we left the comfort of our berth in Whangarei. The day was fine, albeit it frost on the pier by the boat, unheard of in Whangarei. We went past Marsden Point, stacks of logs on the port about to head for foreign parts; whatever happened to adding value to our forestry products?  



The scenary, geology really, is amazing, jagged rocks that look like they are about to topple into the ocean.

The voyage down the river to the coast went well although a little long. It took 2.5 hours to reach open water and when we arrived there we were hit with a fierce, well I thought it was fierce, swell which continued until we were well round Bream Head and heading out to sea. The rest of the day was better but although the sea wasn’t rough, the swell continued to affect the sailing, given the light winds, up to about 15 knots max.

 It was cold, despite the sun. as we headed up the coast and took several hours to get close to Tutukaka. 

The marina was good with all the facilities we needed. A new hotel had been built there and you could see that it would be very busy in Summer. 

We wandered into the Game Fishing Club, where manhood was clearly judged by the size of your Marlin. Lots of 1980s glory days photos on the wall with dead game fish hoisted up as trophies. I think nowadays they mainly tag and release, but don’t quote me on that.

Onwards and Northwards

We have spent a further week in Whangarei, realizing that there was work to be done on the boat and that the weather wasn’t entirely clement. OK that’s an understatement, how were we to know that this would be a record cold spell not seen since 1939. Snow in downtown Auckland and back n Whangarei we made a poor attempt at capturing the hailstones on the boat. 

No the photo won’t win a National geographic photographic prize for capturing torrid weather but no matter, I swear I see a hailstone there. 

Also saw mist and rainbows and as is common for New Zealand all seasons in one week (well except Summer).

Anyway we had to endure the hardship by hunkering down and ensuring that we kept well nourished. 

Fortunately there are many fine eateries within a short walking distance of the boat so we survived.
And of course there was always Happy Hour at Reva's.

I took a trip back to "reality" and Auckland on Monday, attended a Council meeting on Tuesday. I enjoyed meeting friends and colleagues but then happy to get back to Gavin, Anyway, hearth and home; just without the hearth.

On Wednesday there were some last minute unexpected adjustments to the engine, I say no more. Also added a few more home touches to the boat, which now includes more colour and warmth, photos of grandchildren and miscellaneous objects. 

Met some Swiss friends of the previous owners who were delighted to see the boat. Reinforced what a lovely boat she is. 

So what next? We will head up the coast to Kerikeri, take two days and intend to catch fish. The fish will need to be quick to be caught as we will be trawling at 6 knots; maybe that’s not the best approach to fishing!

Looking forward to heading out to sea again and sailing. We now have lazy jacks to help with the mailsail, a well overhauled engine and more local knowledge. Also finally the weather looks fine for sailing, if not cold. Bay of Islands here we come!

By the way I see we have a follower; I think it's my daughter Ella, thank goodness for family. 

Sunday and Monday just relaxing in Whangarei

Just mouching around and enjoying Whangarei, a very friendly place and I love the central location of the marina. Can thoroughly recommend it. Tried out our foldable bikes today, work well although as I had expected probably not very comfortable for somebody of Gavin’s height. 

I’m afraid that my taste in shops is not what it was; Hayley wouldn’t be too impressed. There are however some improvements that could be made to the boat, particularly to assist in sailing when things need to be done in a hurry, like dropping the mainsail for example. We would also like a bimini to provide better shade for the Summer.  Which reminds me that even at this time of the year I have developed a panda look because of my sunglasses.

Still quite an active fishing fleet here. Thought those ropes looked really impressive, might take me some time before I could handle them. 

So Whangarei seems like a good place to look at costs for some of these things, also possibly keeping the boat here over the months we are away and she isn’t being used. Certainly much cheaper than Auckland prices and not far away on the bus. 

Back to the mainland, a flat white and Eggs Benedict

Up early and headed for Bream Head but not enough wind now so motored all the way, about four hours until we got up the channel to the anchorage. 

Passed Marsden Point and a couple of oil tankers and some fairly derelict dockside places on the way up to town, also some interesting old boathouses

The marina in the centre of Whangarei was great, we pulled up at the wharf in the middle of a bustling waterside restaurant area and here we will stay for a few days.

Friday 5 August

Headed out of the shelter of Fitzroy Harbour towards the mainland, first stop overnight being the Hen and Chicken Islands as it was just a bit too far to get up the estuary to Whangarei in one day at this time of year.

Passed the “Spirit of New Zealand” in the Harbour with many youngsters aboard. 

Then into the straight, light winds and concern that we may not get across the water in time. However the wind soon got up along with the swell and we were making about 5 knots on a reefed mainsail and a cutter. We put up the genoa but had to take it in and out several times as the wind rose and eased, mainly as fronts and showers went through. The wind gusted 30 knots and the waves about 2 metres with a 1.5 metre swell which was a combination of swells from various directions. It wasn’t unpleasant but without much confidence in the weather forecasting, we did wonder if that was the height of the wind.

The Hen and Chicken Islands are fairly bleak, at least in these conditions, but I’m sure they are beautiful on calm summer days. We anchored in Boulder Bay for the night, it was tucked in from the Southerly and South-Easterly but still a fair bit of chop.

The anchorage was rocky and the anchor well dug in but the noise of the anchor chain in the night with high winds pulling at the boat was not enjoyable. 

A day of relaxation

The weather forecasts continue to confuse, they are just plain wrong much of the time and certainly contradictory. Not so good when trying to plan the next days sail. Anyway we will probably leave it until Friday to head towards Whangarei, stopping over in the Hen and Chicken Islands so that we get a clear morning run on a rising tide up the estuary to Whangarei.

We decided to spend a quiet day and motored around to the next bay, Forestry Bay, and just relaxed, apart from unsuccessfully trying to catch fish. 

This has a DoC hut but we decided not to go ashore. A couple of house boats in the Bay, it was very sheltered. Very clear water, we just enjoyed the tranquility; thought provoking.

3 August

Decided to hire a car and see the rest of the Island. Headed over the hill to Okiwa and then on through to Claris. The geology and topography is wild, the road must have cost a fortune, winding its way through the hills. Stopped near the Pinnacles and then had lunch at Claris. The East Pacific coast has some wonderful beaches and surf but not as boat friendly as the other side.

A new Art Centre there which was really good, however no art bought this time. Bit of a first I know but I’m not sure where I’m going to put all the stuff I have so not keen to add to it.

Part of the plan was to find some hot Springs to the West of Claris, about 30 mins walk in from the road on a good DoC track. Walked around a great large wetland area, red soil with red colouration having seeped into the water, a consequence of the copper in the soil and a reminder of the volcanic origins of the Island. Found a local on the way, could tell it was a local by the beard, Wellies and Swandri although the Swandri (well hidden) being red instead of green was a worry, maybe a sign of a misspent youth.

The hotpools were more tepid than hot but I’m sure that in Summer they would have been great, although I expect that in Summer people keep to the beaches and the hotpools remain largely undisturbed.

Having not been tempted by the tepid pools, beautiful that they were, we headed over to Tryphena, definitely the most interesting place on Great Barrier Island, or was it just the lure of the Currach Pub?